South Africa

Like many of you, I am prone to reminisce. At every milestone, birthday, or anniversary, I think back with laughter and longing for time spent adventuring with my family. We look at pictures together and tell stories, sharing memories.

Last year, I visited a destination that when recalling these memories, evoke tears. Not from humor or sadness, but from undeniable beauty. The memories I made exploring South Africa with my family are irreplaceable and priceless.

One of our favorite memories on the entire trip - a legit double rainbow.

My grandmother always told me that traveling is like starting a new book: airports, trains, and long car rides are like the introduction, which is not usually that interesting. In case you weren’t acutely aware, South Africa is not close to Dallas…it has an introduction, preamble, and forward. So, a quick PSA: I know it can be pricey, and as someone in the industry I don't always think it's worth it…but if you can swing business or first class, do it. South Africa is…well, very far. If loss of sleep causes you to lose a quality day on the front end of your vacation, it's worth weighing the cost. We we VERY glad we opted for business class.

On the way over, we made a pit stop in London. The layover was long enough that it warranted an in-airport hotel to get cleaned up (I recommend the Sofitel London Heathrow for a day room) and a popover into London for an amazing rooftop lunch at the incredible Dorchester hotel. The live music, delicious food, and warm sunlight was just what we needed to begin combating jet lag!

After another long flight, we made it into Cape Town ready to go! On this trip, we partnered with Giltedge, one of my favorite team of experts in Africa. Founded in 2001, Giltedge has people at the heart of its company - they have quick communication, fantastic partners and unbeatable knowledge.

For my family and I, a true highlight of any destination is getting to know the locals. My amazing in-country partners provided us with the most kind, knowledgeable driver, guide, and now friend (Noel) who gave us the greatest experience in Cape Town possible.

Noel was knowledgeable, kind, fantastic with the girls and passionate about his country.

We met him at the airport and he took us directly to the Silo Hotel, part of the Royal Portfolio collection.. My first thought upon entering the Silo Hotel was, "I wish I could stay longer!" The eclectic décor, attention to detail, waterfront views, and the incredibly kind staff are unmatched. For families, the Silo offers a Family Duplex Suite - two bedrooms, two bathrooms and a living room overlooking the V+A Waterfront.

Noel picked us up after we got settled into the hotel to take us on our first journey into Cape Town. We started by driving to the base of Table Mountain for a full view of the gorgeous city. We drove down to the shoreline, the cliffs towering around the city like giants watching the wind-blown waves crash violently against the rocks. 

Fun fact: These sunglasses did not make it home to America with us.

As we drove, Noel explained the rich history of the city and country. He is a 70 year-old native South African who has quite a story to tell. Every day we were with him, we were captivated by his life. I went to bed every night grateful for the opportunity for our kids (and me, too) to become more aware global citizens.

For our first night in Cape Town, we had an incredible dinner at Fledgelings. The chefs were flexing that night! Sashimi, duck breast, oxtail, ice cream…watching my kids become little foodies is the best.

After breakfast the next morning, Noel picked us up and drove back to Table Mountain. We were anticipating bad weather the following day, so at Noel's guidance we adjusted our agenda and used our fast-passes to take the tram up Table Mountain (another PSA: when working with a private guide, your schedule can be changed as needed!). From the top, you can look out over either end and see Cape Town and the other side of the bay. The views were unforgettable.

Next, we started the trek down the peninsula, heading for the native penguins. Seeing them in their natural habitat was a first. The South African penguins are called “jackass” penguins because their call sounds exactly like a donkey. Our girls especially loved the babies and seeing the eggs! We stopped for lunch at an old restaurant overlooking the ocean; the local beer and fish cakes hit the spot!

Continuing our journey down the peninsula, we were stopped in the road by about a dozen baboons. They were so close we could see their little fingers pulling weeds out of the ground to eat. Noel said these little guys were always being naughty, stopping traffic and digging in trash cans. On several occasions we passed city officials on the road carrying paintball guns. Their job was to shoot the baboons (not harming them, of course, just with paintballs) to keep them off the roads and from causing too much trouble. So the story goes that the most colorful baboons are the most naughty!

The Cape of Good Hope at the tip of the peninsula is a natural habitat of--wait for it--ostriches. Seriously shocked. Never would’ve thought, but there were about 5 ostriches pecking at the grass right near the beach. This entire area is magical. The waves are enormous and so powerful. At the lighthouse we were up so high we could see where the two ocean currents come together (Atlantic and Indian). We felt like we were at the bottom of the world! And of course, Eisley dropped her sunglasses off the cliff so a part of us will always be there.

 That evening, we headed over to Kloof Street House restaurant. You can't go to Cape Town and miss this restaurant. The ambiance and food were our best meal so far on both fronts! And when you are there, be sure to order the cheesecake with popcorn on top. You're welcome.

The next morning, after another stellar breakfast, we headed out to Creation winery. Inside, the scene was perfectly set with a fire burning, plants hanging from the ceiling, and views positioned high above the vineyards. Our waiter was a native South African and really kind. The girls had a “paint your own” waffle with juice “tastings”. We all shared some cauliflower soup and Springbok. Then we finished it all off with port and an apple crisp. Not bad for a quick lunch! And needless to say, we most definitely ordered a case of this delicious wine.

Leaving the Silo Hotel that morning was sad, but our next stop didn't disappoint: Grootbos! Located just under a few hours from Cape Town on the coast, it is secluded and boasts incredible views of the ocean and Fynbos (a natural and exceptionally biodiverse shrubland native to the area). Grootbos is all-inclusive property, and the food and drink are fantastic! Because Grootbos is out of the city, you can see stars forever. Before bed, we relaxed on the patio and stargazed. So grateful.

 The following morning, we headed off to the spa! Grootbos does a really great job catering to families: offering amazing (and healthy) food, a petting zoo, and movie nights, for example. But none more appreciated by my girls than a kid-friendly spa! What a way to start the day!

After lunch, we were driven by the friendly staff down to the beach for a cave tour. These natural caves were huge! The girls walked down to the beach and had a great time finding a million shells and loading our pockets with them. This beach isn't easy to get to without a guide, so it wasn't damaged by people. We found a shark egg, skeleton of a sea urchin, fresh water springs that we drank out of, and lots of bones. On the drive back to our hotel, our guide spotted a whale—so we pulled off to the side of the road and watched a mother and her baby from high above!

 That night, the girls watched a movie and ate in the kids area while the hotel manager served us some local gin with our dinner. She brought out three bottles: the first with 10 different Fynbos species infused, the second with 20 species, and the last with 30 infused Fynbos species. This last Inverroche Amber gin was our favorite. If anyone is in South Africa and feels like bringing me a bottle home, I’ll be your new best friend.

 The next morning, Noel picked us up from Grootbos and we headed to La Residence, another property in the Royal Portfolio collection located in the South African Winelands. The drive up through the vineyards and farmlands in the mountain valley was so beautiful. Spring wild flowers were just starting to pop up. The bright yellow of canola was growing everywhere. I felt like we were in a painting!

 Arriving at La Residance was mind-blowing. The landscape reminded me of the countryside in Switzerland. We ate lunch on the patio overlooking vineyards with mountain peaks in every direction, and were occasionally visited by the on-site peacocks.

After we got settled, we took the girls swimming in the heated pool. Truly picturesque--we just kept looking at each other and laughing at how absurdly beautiful the place was.

That evening, we took the private property house-car (a BMW) into the quant little town, Franschhoek, for some shopping before dinner at Protégé. This restaurant had a great ambiance for kids while still being romantic. The food presentation was out of this world. We all got the tasting menu: shrimp ravioli, pork bao buns, muscles, fish, and lamb. Then a Carmel dish and chocolate dish for dessert.

The next day was wine tasting day! After a light breakfast, we started with a chocolate and wine pairing at Lanzerac. The pairings were amazing, and the girls LOVED participating in the tasting with their own chocolate paired with a red grapetizer and white appletizer (sparkling juice).

To work up our appetite for lunch, we took a walking tour of Babylonstoren, an old Cape Dutch farm. The fruit and vegetable gardens have unique and beautiful diversity. We ate at the farm's restaurant, Babel: farm-to-table before it was even trendy. So fresh and delicious. The salted steak and sea bass were as good as the just-picked fruits and veggies.

That afternoon back at La Resideance, my husband grabbed one of the hotel's bicycles and took a ride through the vineyards: one of his highlights!

That evening for dinner, we walked to the terrace kitchen for dinner. We were the only guests staying in the Vineyard suites, so we had our own private chef, Granville Riffel, and waitress! He knew we were from Texas so he threw meat on the grill over an open flame and we chatted with him while he made dinner - a traditional South African braai. We got to walk through the kitchen and look at all the amazing fresh ingredients he pulled that day from the gardens. This was really unbelievable. With the fire going, wine, music, and amazing dinner, we felt at home (as much as you can feel at home with a private chef and waitress)! The girls got to make their own pizzas that he cooked in front of them. Chef Granville served us beef sausages, filet, ribs, corn-on-the-cob, grapefruit/hummus/salmon salad, roasted potatoes, roasted veggies, amazing bread, and then the most incredible cinnamon dessert I’ve ever had. The night was one I’ll never forget.

Our trip is now over halfway over, and if we were to have left then, it still would have been one of our favorites. The people, food, scenery, and accommodations were top tier. Little did I know the second half of our trip would exceed all expectations.

We left Cape Town on a short flight to Hoedspruit, where we would be going on safari in Kruger National Park. I admit, I was a little anxious that we wouldn't see much on safari. What if we came all that way and the animals were being shy? But during landing, I spotted two giraffes and an elephant…from the plane! All my anxiety disappeared.

We met our driver at the airport who took us through the winding dirt roads to Waterside Lodge. On the way in, we saw a small herd of elephants…already! Our excitement could barely be contained.

Arriving at Waterside, it took all but 10 seconds to realize this is the most magical place I've ever been. As we pulled up past the electric fence, staff members were waving us in, calling us by name, and genuinely welcoming us to their home. True to form, my husband asked when and where food was served. When the chef came over and told him that he could have whatever he wants whenever he wants and wherever he wants, my husband melted to the ground.

Our suite at Waterside had a huge living area, outdoor balcony and pool, and two big rooms with massive beds. On our first afternoon, we saw elephants and a family of hippos from our balcony!

Luckily, we arrived to the hotel early enough to make the 4pm game drive. We saw four of the Big Five - we came across elephants, warthogs, zebras, lots of impalas, wildebeest, water buffalo, giraffes, a rhino, and lions. The rhino was a rare spotting; I couldn't believe how close we could get to these majestic animals.

Now, I need to tell you about sundowners. There is nothing more incredible than sipping a cocktail in the middle of the bush watching the sun set over top the towering giraffes. The image and feeling is burned into my mind and soul forever.

Once the sun was down, Barry (our guide) and Eric (our tracker/spotter) drove us to a recent lion kill where we watched two male lions take turns eating on the carcass of a wildebeest! Eisley said the sound of the bones breaking reminded her of someone eating carrots - spot on! After a late dinner, we called it a night - exhausted and full in every way!

 In the morning, after some coffee and biscuits at the bar, we went out again for the morning game drive. It wasn't long before Barry and Erick tracked down four male lions and two female lions sauntering through the bush! One of the males was obviously on the prowl to mate, and the females were absolutely not in the mood. At one point, one of the male lions walked under the back of our vehicle and laid down for shade.

We headed back to camp for breakfast (while watching hippos sunbathe!). After breakfast, the girls went for a swim and we enjoyed time outside on our terrace before heading to the spa.  Waterside is one of a limited number of safari lodges that caters to children of all ages. And I don’t just mean “allows” children, but genuinely welcomes them and treats them as important guests. Kids are not an afterthought here.

On our next few game drives during the following two days, we saw more than we could have imagined. More lions- I’m still blown away at their power…they are one of very few animals that are relaxed in the bush, being at the top of the food chain (along with hippos, elephants, and rhinos).

We saw elephants making their way through bush and uprooting trees. They’re always eating and always moving. Barry told us they communicate with really low rumbling noises. Sometimes, you can hear it—it’s internal in their gut. Other times they put their trunk to the ground and make a sound that is too low for us to hear, but elephants far away can pick up through their feet. They are by far the smartest animals out here.

We stumbled on a couple giraffe—finally got to see them up close! The girls (and I) thought it quite hilarious that the birds perch on the giraffe to eat the ticks and bugs.

A leopard was even spotted!  She was so powerful and graceful in her movements.

 At this point, I have to brag on Barry. This guy not only loves his job, but he seemed to know everything. Any question that came to mind, he could answer. This was really evident when Barry saw a lion make a very indistinct movement. Barry told us that the lion is about to yawn, and that will make him more active. How he knows this so accurately is beyond me, but after a yawn, it stood up and walked straight toward us. This lion was so close, I could have reached down and touched it as it passed by. Just so awe-inspiring!

Royal Malewane guides are considered to be the best qualified guiding team in Africa thanks to their impressive collection of high-level FGASA qualifications. The team has over 350 years of combined experience in the African bush. When you are considering a safari destination, the guides and trackers can make a huge difference in your experience!

The last morning after one more game drive and final delicious breakfast we had to pack up and head out. We were so, so sad to leave; but even more grateful for the experience.

This trip recap doesn't do our experience justice. Certainly you can read this and imagine the tastes, views, and incredible people. But the deep connection we made with Noel, hearing how he loves his country and of a life well-lived; the way our souls were lifted with wonder of a place that has only existed in imagination until now; the adrenaline of a lion walking directly toward you and your family in an unprotected vehicle and yet feeling totally calm because of your guide’s expertise; and most importantly, the ever-deepening connection and bond of gratitude between me and my family--THIS is why we travel.

Every real connection made to people from difference places and backgrounds encourages our hearts to love--and teaches us that we aren't so different after all.